Cucuron, Provence With Kids

I’ll admit I had my doubts about Provence as a child-friendly destination but it’s actually the perfect place to slow down and just have fun together. In fact, we took a multi-generational trip to France’s beautiful south-eastern region and everyone enjoyed themselves. After all, from toddler to senior, who doesn’t like a pain au chocolat?

I’ll start by saying our trip took more than one day! However, I will condense the best bits down to one day so you have an idea of what to expect if you are planning a family vacation to France. 

The Luberon

We wanted to stay in a village somewhere in the Luberon region, as I had been there once for a wedding and had always wanted to return for longer. The Luberon is a national nature park in the heart of Provence, France’s rural idyll. Enclosed by mountain ranges, the region is home to forests, lakes, orchards and vineyards with medieval villages scattered in between. 

After a lot of research, we stayed in an Airbnb in Cucuron, a quiet walled town on the southern edge of the Luberon. Although there are many beautiful communities in this part of the world, I loved Cucuron because it is somehow in perfect balance with tradition and modernity, embracing the best of both worlds.

Unfortunately, the place we stayed is no longer being advertised but there are plenty of beautiful properties available in Cucuron. Book early if you are planning on visiting during the peak summer months, as accommodation gets snapped up fast.

Croissants and Markets

Wake up to the sound of church bells and head to one of Cucuron’s bakeries. I counted three, which is not bad for a town of 1,800. If it is a Tuesday go straight to the market in the town’s Place de l’Etang, where market stalls selling fresh local produce crowd around the huge pond, shaded by 200-year-old plane trees. You will find plenty of cheese, meat, fruit and vegetable samples to taste as well as the ubiquitous buttery croissants and pain au chocolats for sale. 

This is a good opportunity to introduce kids (and yourself) to some foods they may not be familiar with and to learn the French names.

If the market is not on, you can still find all the local produce at the shops, which you will have to hunt for through the town’s ancient, winding narrow streets. Even at the height of summer the morning the air is cool and the tall buildings shade the narrow streets, so it is a good time to explore the village. 

Cherries, melons and olives are all grown around Cucuron, which is a farming community and not just a tourist town. Apricots are also a regional speciality and an apricot jam tart from the Boulangerie Frederic Sagnes on Rue de la Place is the best way to appreciate the sweet fruit. While you are buying breakfast, get yourself a loaf of bread for lunch later. Stop by the butcher on the corner of Rue de la Mairie and Rue du Portail de l’Etang for pate, sausage, ham and tangy goat’s cheese, then seek out one of the stalls that mysteriously pop up from homes for cherries, grapes or whatever else is in season.

Head over to the Place de l’Etang and hang out with a coffee at one of the cafes surrounding the pond. If you are used to US standards of service, you may need to adjust your expectations. No one is in a particular hurry to serve you but neither are they keen to shuffle you out when you are finished. Take your time, enjoy the natural air conditioning created by the shady trees and the breeze.

Once you are finally ready to move on, head up to the Saint-Michel tower overlooking the town, taking plenty of detours up and down the winding alleys. Try to include the Notre Dame de Beaulieu church in your wandering, a 13th-century Gothic structure with an enormous poplar tree tied up outside. The tree is part of an annual festival dating back to 17th century, celebrating the end of the plague that devastated the town.

Castles and Ice Cream

Once you have explored Cucuron, head out into the French countryside. If it’s a sunny day, pack your swimsuits and towels for the seven-minute drive to Etang de la Bonde, a swimming lake located four miles to the east of Cucuron. Lifeguards are on duty during July and August on the west side of the lake. There is also a snack bar open in the summer if you decided not to bring your picnic.

You could spend all afternoon on the sandy beach or walking through the pine trees but there are also castles to explore. The town of Lourmarin has the Chateau de Lourmarin, a 12th century fortress converted in the 15th century into a home. Restored in the early 20th century, the chateau is full of furniture showing how people lived over the years. If you have a toddler it may be tricky to keep them the right side of the velvet ropes but they can always have a good run around the shady playground outside the chateau grounds afterwards.

The promise of an ice cream may also help. Go to C en Provence in Place Henri Barthelemy nearby for outstanding ice cream and cold lemonade. I enjoyed the lavender but chocolate fans won’t be disappointed either.

After a day of culture and ice cream, head back to your accommodation for a rest before the evening outing.

Music and Wine

If it’s a Tuesday in the summer between June 26th and September 4th, the Domaine de Fontanille in neighboring Lauris hosts Apertif in the Gardens, a weekly event with a singer and upmarket food trucks from 6.30pm. This is hugely popular with locals so arrive on time to get a parking spot and a table under the paper lanterns.

On a warm evening, this stunning winery and hotel is a relaxing place to enjoy a glass of local wine, delicious food and listen to music. As it is all outdoors, kids can run around safely on the lawns without bothering anyone, which reduces the usual stress of eating out. It’s like going to a wedding without the formalities.

If you don’t have a designated driver, taxis are available – ask at your accommodation for help in booking one.

Not there on a Tuesday? Never mind, Cucuron has several restaurants happy to accommodate families. We enjoyed a delightful meal at Les Baravineurs, 40 Boulevard Du Nord, where the owners will happily guide you through the tapas-style menu, with a focus on local, seasonal and fresh dishes. Inside is a cozy space with large wooden tables and a bar, which opens onto a spacious patio under a grapevine arbor.

If you are uncertain whether the kids can handle the menu, Cucuron’s Le Parrot’s, 60 Rue del’Eglise, serves fresh, homemade Italian food, or get a wood fired pizza at Mama Pizza on Place de la Cabreyade.

How To Get Around

Cucuron is small enough to walk around but you will need a car to get there. We flew in from Lyon airport, which is an almost three-hour drive from Cucuron. Nice airport is closer at two hours journey time, while Marseille Provence airport is just 47 minutes. Book flights as far in advance as you can, as they fill up quickly in the summer months.

We stayed at an Airbnb in Cucuron, as it was the easiest way to accommodate a large group in one home. For more tips on how to travel with young children, see my posts on Flying With A Baby and Flying With A Toddler.

Where To Stay

As I mentioned further up, the property we stayed at is not currently available to rent but if, like us, you like to stay in a house when you travel, there are plenty of great places available on VRBO.

We also saw some beautiful boutique hotels in the town, including Les Chambres de Charlotte ($), which was right next door to our house. The rooms have one queen bed but the hotel will add an extra bed or crib on request for families. Breakfast is provided.

Domaine La Parpeille ($$) is just outside the walls of Cucuron but has all the Provençal charm and a swimming pool, perfect for cooling off after a morning exploring. Double rooms with two twin beds and a queen are available. There is also a games room and even a bowling alley.

What to read

I made good use of Lonely Planet’s Provence and the Cote d’Azure guide but if you want to go beyond guidebooks, Peter Mayle’s classic A Year in Provence is great value on Amazon right now. The movie A Good Year with Russel Crowe based on the book was filmed in and around Cucuron.