San Francisco has a reputation for not being the most child-centric city to live in, with more dogs than children. As a visitor, however, its small size, mild weather and fun attractions actually make San Francisco with kids the perfect place to spend a day.
Morning
Start the day right with a Morning Bun and a coffee at Tartine, 600 Guerrero Street, before it gets too crowded. By lunchtime on a weekend, there are lines around the block for this neighborhood favorite. Let the kids enjoy the playground at Dolores Park and take a few snaps of city from the top of the hill, before catching a tram to your next stop – one of San Francisco’s unique museums. The challenge is to choose one…
Museum of Ice Cream
Catch the J tram from Dolores Park to Powell Street and visit the Museum of Ice Cream on Grant Avenue at Union Square, which describes itself as an “immersive theatrical experience” and includes tastings. MOIC is $38 a ticket, with children under two free. EDIT The Museum of Ice Cream is currently closed but another exhibition is in town – check out the Immersive Vincent Van Gogh experience at SVN West San Francisco, 10 South Van Ness Avenue. Tickets start from $39.99 for adults.
Lunch at the Cheesecake Factory located in the Macy’s at Union Square is a fun experience, with great views of the area. Alternatively, cross Market Street for Super Duper Burgers, which are genuinely super duper.
Exploratorium
Get the J tram all the way to the Embarcadero, where you can either change to the F or walk to Pier 15. The Exploratorium (open Tuesday-Sunday 10am-5pm, adult ticket $29.95, child 4-12 $19.95 and children under 3 free) is a collection of interactive science and art exhibits. All 650 exhibits are hands-on and a lot of fun. For lunch, check out the Ferry Building, home to an enticing assortment of food stalls and restaurants.
California Academy of Sciences
Before leaving Dolores Park, pick up lunch at Tartine or Bi-Rite market next door as options at Golden Gate Park are slightly limited. Catch the J to Church and Duboce then the N west to 9th and Irving, where you walk into Golden Gate Park. With animals, a rainforest, an aquarium and a planetarium, California Academy of Sciences is a unique natural history museum located within San Francisco’s famous Golden Gate Park. Open Monday-Saturday 8.30am to 5pm, $35.95 for adults, $30.95 for 12-17 year-olds, $25.95 for 4-11 and free for children under 3. Golden Gate Park also hosts a carousel, a great playground and a lake with boats for hire. If you didn’t pack a picnic earlier, there is a good hotdog stand by the Carousel.
Afternoon
Baker Beach
If you have any energy left, you could check out Baker Beach, where you will find sand, fog, crashing waves and a great view of the Golden Gate Bridge. In San Francisco, the closer you get to the ocean, the colder and duller it gets, so you will need to layer up. From Union Square, take the 38R bus to Geary and 25th, then the 29. From the Ferry Building, take the number 1 bus. From Golden Gate Park, take 5R to Fulton and 25th, then the 29.
Cable Cars
San Francisco’s cable cars are also a fun way to spend an afternoon. You can get the California line from near Golden Gate Park or the Ferry Building, or the Powell Hyde line from Union Square. The Powell-Hyde line is a popular route as it meanders through some beautiful neighborhoods, including Lombard Street, famous for being the “crookedest street in San Francisco”. This line terminates in Fisherman’s Wharf, which is a bit of a tourist trap but is worth checking out for the sea lions, which hang out at Pier 39.
If you have older kids…
…then get a ferry to Alcatraz for a day out. Book online at least one month in advance and be on time, as you won’t get another chance if you miss your ferry! Alternatively, and if your family enjoys cycling, hire bikes from the Ferry Building and cycle around the Embarcadero, through the Presidio and over the Golden Gate Bridge. You will get to see some of San Francisco’s prettiest neighborhoods and experience the city’s famous bridge up close. On the other side, spend an afternoon in Sausalito, before heading back on the ferry to San Francisco. There are many great places to eat on the waterfront.
Getting around
Public transport in San Francisco consists of the Muni (trams, buses and cable cars) and the BART (underground train). You can buy a single ticket on board the Muni from the driver ($2.50, 4 and under free) but you must have the exact change. A day pass for the Muni costs $12 on the app MuniMobile, $15 on a Clipper card (including the $3 fee for the card) or $23 for a paper pass. These can be purchased at ticket kiosks, found at most of the major stops. If you are visiting for more than a day, check out CityPASS, a discount card you can buy that includes a 3-day Muni card plus entrance to two museums, an aquarium and a bay cruise.
Where to avoid
San Francisco is a fairly safe city but has some serious social issues including a large and visible homeless population, in part a victim of its own success as tech money pushes house prices beyond what many can afford. It’s often a shock to visitors unused to seeing such poverty amid such obvious wealth, and it seems worse in this city because many of those living on the streets do so right in the center, an area known as mid-market. So if you want to stay right in the center, in Union Square, you’re probably going to see SF’s unpretty side.
Public transport is the easiest way to get around but if you have a car, just DO NOT leave anything on display. Stick to parking garages, which are a little safer.
The neighborhood known as the Tenderloin is best avoided altogether, so don’t wander down Ellis or Eddy Streets from Union Square. Not to say this area is all bad but its certainly one of the sketchier areas here. Union Square itself is fine, home to some of the glitzier hotels, shops and restaurants. At Christmas time, this is where you will find the big tree and an ice rink.
Where to stay in San Francisco
Newly-refurbished Hotel Nikko is conveniently located on Mason Street, just off Union Square. This luxury hotel features an indoor pool, gym, parking and is pet-friendly.
If you want to stay somewhere with some old-world San Franciscan charm, stay at the InterContinental Mark Hopkins San Francisco. The bar on the top floor is famous for its views and Martini menu.
Prefer to stay like a local? VRBO has listings for apartments all over the city. The area around Mission Dolores is good for families, with Dolores Park, a ton of great restaurants and close to the downtown.
Some people also warn tourists away from the Mission neighborhood but personally this is one of my favorite places in the city, with an incredible array of restaurants, bars, cafes and interesting shops. If you stay on Valencia Street you will be fine.