The Lost Coast is the romantic – but apt – name for a stunningly beautiful stretch of coastline along Mendocino and Humboldt Counties in Northern California. Unlike in Big Sur, where Highway 1 boldly clings to the towering cliffs above a thundering ocean, engineers decided this road would take an easier inland route, essentially cutting off the entire Kings Range region from civilization.
And so it was lost to all but the most intrepid travelers, those who were prepared to walk the three-day, 25-mile trail across sand and through surf. It is now the longest stretch of undeveloped Pacific coastline south of Alaska and feels about as remote as you can get in California.
I like my beaches wild and windswept, so of course I wanted to go. But with young children, I didn’t think we could carry everything we needed on a hike plus two kids.
Fortunately, there are a few roads that lead to the Lost Coast, making it possible to car camp. And unlike other Californian campgrounds, they are never crowded, even in the summer peak times.
If you are planning your first camping trip as a family, I have a post on what to pack and what to expect when camping with a baby, including a checklist.
Mattole River Campground
3750 Lighthouse Road, Petrolia
At the northern end of the Lost Coast Trail is Mattole River Campground, at the mouth of the Mattole River. All you will find at this campsite are spots for your tent and car, a picnic bench, a fire pit and vault toilets. There is no drinking water, no showers, no store.
Camping is not directly on the beach – the campsite is behind the sand dunes. Although I would have enjoyed waking to an ocean view, the dunes do protect the site from the wind.
I was really struck by how quiet it was. There was no traffic noise at all, the only sounds were the birds and the ocean.
As this is a Bureau of Land Management (BLM) managed campground, picking up driftwood from the beach for your fire is permitted. The kids really enjoyed this job, taking time to select the best logs on our walks for our evening campfire.
Our children are aged three and five, so we kept it simple: taking short walks, flying a kite and searching for shells. However, if you have older kids you could take the three-mile hike out to the abandoned Punta Gorda Lighthouse.
I have a guide on camping gifts for kids, if you need some tips on what to take camping to keep toddlers and children entertained.
Dogs are welcome at this site and the beach is the perfect place to let them have a good run. We don’t have a pooch ourselves but this is a great post with tips on tent camping with dogs.
No reservations are available. We went during the week and had no problem finding a spot but it may fill up on a weekend. If it is full, you can camp on the beach. The camping fee is $8, payable to a lock box.
Now the downside to this site – the road in! The campsite is at the end of 50 miles of winding, narrow, potholed, and at times, unpaved roads. It took us two hours from Garberville, the point where we left the 101 to go to the coast.
I strongly suggest you do this drive during the day and consider if your kids’ stomachs can hack it. There are also no stops for gas or food so make sure you have EVERYTHING you need before embarking on your journey.
We do not have a 4×4 and made it in our SUV but if you have a sedan you could take the road from Ferndale rather than Garberville, as it is apparently far better maintained.
A.W Way County Park
Miner Lane, Petrolia
Need slightly more in the way of facilities? The campsite at A.W Way County Park, Petrolia, is nearby but has coin operated showers, bathrooms and drinking water. Camping is $25 a night at this grassy, tree-fringed site. It is first come, first served but there are 30 spots so you it is unlikely you will be turned away.
The site gets you access to the Mattole River, where you can swim or paddle in the cool, slow flowing water. If you are hoping to swim, this might be a better base camp than at the beach, as the Pacific is pretty rough (and cold) for young swimmers.
Again, we did pass a small store in Honeydew, a short drive away, but I wouldn’t rely on this for your supplies. Make sure you grab everything you might need for your Lost Coast adventure before taking the road to Petrolia.
If you wanted to stay longer than a couple of nights in this area, I would stay here rather than Mattole River Campground.
Waillaki Campground
Chemise Mountain Road, Shelter Cove
At the southern end of the Lost Coast trail, just 15 minutes outside of Shelter Cove, is another car-accessible BLM site: Wailaki Campground. As with Mattole, there are no bathrooms or showers, or even drinkable water, so bring your own or a way of treating the water from the creek.
There are 13 sites here, each with a picnic table and fire ring. No reservations are available and the fee is $8.
Wailaki Campground is in a shady location in the forest with a creek running through. Black Sand Beach is a short drive away.
We didn’t make it to this one, so I can’t give you a review! However, I found this blog post helpful so take a look if you want to stay here. With it being close to Shelter Cove, I would recommend arriving early in the day to make sure you get a spot.
To find Wailaki, take the 101 to Redway, go west 22 miles on Briceland/Shelter Cove Road, then south two miles on Chemise Mountain Road.
Usal Beach Camp
Usal Road, Mendocino
The most remote and primitive of the car camping sites on the Lost Coast is Usal, in Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, Mendocino. We didn’t camp here because I was concerned about whether our car could make it – there is very little information available online about this place!
However, I talked to a Park Ranger who camps here regularly and he reassured me it is passable during the summer months and he thought our SUV would be fine.
It’s actually only six miles from the highway on a gravel/dirt track. We certainly intend to try camping here and will report back when we do!
The Ranger I spoke to said this camp is right on the beach and absolutely stunning.
There are fire rings and pit toilets, but no potable water or anywhere to leave your trash – you will need to pack in and pack out.
There are no reservations available but with 25 campsites and the difficult road, I cannot imagine you would need one.
Bring more water and food than you need – if a fallen tree or fire blocks Usal Road, you will be stranded in the wilderness until it is cleared!
Usal Road is 13 miles north of Westport or 14.5 miles south of Legget on Highway 1. There is no fee.
A word on wildlife
The Lost Coast is undeveloped, which means there is plenty of wildlife to spot. Look out for Roosevelt elk, bears, sea lions, eagles and whales while you are here! Be aware that bears are hungry and very intelligent – they will find a way into your car unless your food is stored in an air-tight container. Never leave any food in your tent and make sure there are no scraps of food around your campsite.
