Bodie, a Californian ghost town, might seem like an odd family day out but we were all excited as we rounded the last corner on the dirt road and entered the State Historic Park.
I felt as though we had swapped our family SUV for a DeLorean time machine, so little had changed since the inhabitants of the gold-mining town abandoned their homes and possessions over 50 years ago.
Although just five per cent of the buildings remain from this once-bustling town, what is left has been remarkably preserved in a state of “arrested decay”.
You get the distinct impression the owners might be back at any moment to reclaim their belongings – or, perhaps, as the temperature suddenly changes from searing heat to icy cold, they never really left.
If you are intrigued by California’s colorful gold-rush history, Bodie is a great family day out. Located just over two hour’s drive from South Lake Tahoe, you could do this as a day trip from Tahoe or as part of a Sierra road trip.
How much does it cost to go to Bodie?
The entrance fee is $8 per adult and $5 for children ages 4-17. Kids 0-3 are free. You can also buy a self-guided tour book for $3, which I would highly recommend to make the most of your visit.
As a state park, the town has not been overly commercialized and aside from a small gift shop in the museum, there is nothing to buy here, so be sure to pack a picnic before you come.
There are restrooms in the car park and a drinking fountain (however, this was boxed off when we visited in June 2021 – I am not sure if it is because of the drought or COVID, but bring plenty of water).
In the summer months, Bodie is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Bodie is open in the winter too, but the snow means the road could be closed. Check the local weather before heading out there in the winter, or come with a snowmobile!
Is Bodie worth visiting?
Bodie is a real town, with homes, stores, a mine, a schoolhouse, bars and hotels… just without the people. It is a snapshot of a fascinating era gone by and anyone curious about what life was like in a frontier town during California’s gold rush should come and take a look.
If you love creepy abandoned building photography (yes this is a thing) I recommend getting to Bodie at opening time, before the crowds spoil your shot.
What happened to Bodie ghost town?
As with all mining towns, Bodie is a story of boom and bust. In 1859, prospectors W.S. Bodey and E.S. “Black” Taylor discovered gold in the high desert, 8,375 feet above sea level. Word spread and miners hoping to strike it rich headed to the area.
However, It wasn’t until the 1870s that Bodie’s population exploded, when the Standard Mining Company discovered a rich seam. By 1880, Bodie had a population of about 10,000 people – with more than 60 saloons and its own Chinatown.
The boom times at Bodie were short-lived. Mining became more difficult and by 1886, much of the population had left for more lucrative gold fields. A fire in 1932 destroyed most of the town and Bodie became a ghost town in the 1940s.
Bodey never saw the rise and fall of the town named in his honor. He died in a winter storm on a supply run in 1859.
The Bad Man of Bodie
Even among frontier towns, Bodie had a reputation as the wildest of the Wild West.
Gunfights were a regular occurrence within the town and highwaymen lay in wait for the stagecoaches laden with bullion in the hills outside. There were enough lurid incidences to keep five local newspaper busy, printing tales of murder and vigilante justice.
One of the more famous stories was of Joseph DeRoche, who danced with Thomas Treloar’s wife at the Miner’s Ball in the winter of 1881. After DeRoche left, Treloar followed him to the corner of Main Street and shot him in the head.
Although Treloar was quickly apprehended, he just as quickly escaped; apparently the Deputy in charge was too drunk to properly imprison his suspect. However, a vigilante mob quickly tracked him down and, the following morning, hanged Treloar in the same spot where the murder took place.
Killings were so commonplace in Bodie that the newspapers ran a report when an entire seven days passed without a single murder.
Despite the violence, brothels and dangerous work, miners raised their families in Bodie. Peer into the many homes and you will catch a glimpse of family life in the 19th century. The schoolhouse still has desks lined up neatly, with a lesson waiting on the board.
It was reported in one Sierra newspaper that a little girl, on hearing her family was moving to the town, said: “Goodbye, God, I’m going to Bodie”. Naturally, the Bodie editor claimed the child had clearly been misquoted; what she actually said was “Good, by God, I’m going to Bodie.”
Is Bodie family friendly?
Today, Bodie is a very family-friendly town. Head to the museum at the start of your tour and get a Junior Ranger worksheet from the ranger. Our kids loved finding all the answers as we walked around and were delighted to receive their badges after completing their project.
The history of the town is not presented in a lurid way and only one murder makes it into the guided tour. The scariest thing is the possibility of a rattlesnake lurking in the tall grass, although we only saw an adorable Pika.
Bodie is fairly stroller-friendly, with flat, gravel paths throughout the town. It’s also reasonably wheelchair accessible, although you may need to drive to certain sections – contact the park in advance to get the best experience.
Bodie weather
The climate here is bizarre! We visited in mid-June and the weather went from cool, to searing hot, to rain and wind within three hours. Summer is the best time to visit, as there is no snow at least, so the road is clear. I do think the town would be beautiful in the winter, however – if you could get up safely.
Where to stay in Bodie
I recommend staying at Virginia Creek Settlement, a motel south of Bridgeport, just off Highway 395. It’s about as close as you can get to Bodie (no one is allowed to stay in the town), which means you can get up early and visit with fewer tourists around.
There is a Wild West theme, so we had fun exploring the grounds and the creek behind the motel. You can choose to stay in a regular motel room, in one of the rustic cabins or bunk down in a covered wagon.
I would love to stay in one of the cute wagons, but they only accommodate two people, and we were four. I chatted briefly to a guest staying in one and he said it was very cozy although he recommended taking a sleeping bag as it can get cold at night.
Instead I booked a cabin, which was very comfortable and we did not need to use the space heater provided overnight. The cabins have no bathrooms, so bear in mind you will need to use the communal bathrooms, just like on a campsite. It is also noisy with trucks roaring by, so if this bothers you, I recommend staying in one of the motel rooms.
Barbecues are provided on site if you want to bring your own food (or if you are fortunate enough to catch yourself a trout from the creek) but there is also a good restaurant.
Around Bodie
Lake Tahoe is a two-hour drive north, or head further south on the 395 for just under an hour to the Tioga Pass and Yosemite National Park.
The ski resort town of Mammoth Lakes is also located approximately one hour south of Bodie.
Sounds kinda spooky, but fun to visit!
Would be fun to visit and to learn about the history of the town.
I had no idea that this place existed! I always wanted to visit a ghost town! Thanks for the great tips.